Here at the shop we've been running a big AR sale lately and it seems that there is still a lot of questions on how to clean America's favorite rifle. Instead of boring you with a lengthy set of instructions, we felt it might be better to just include a link this amazing video from the good people at Classicfirearms.com. Sit back, click on this link and enjoy!!! 

Here in the shop there seems to be a common question frequently asked of us by both men and women alike, “What is a Good First Gun?” After considerable thought, and frustration, I decided to go out to the World Wide Web (Internet for some) and came across this amazing article on the Ammo Man School of Guns webpage.  WHAT’S THE BEST FIRST GUN? Every doctor is used to being asked medical questions at a party, and I’m certain that mechanics get asked car repair questions in social situations. When people find outI write about guns, they inevitably ask something like, “I’m thinking about getting a gun. What’s the best first gun for me?” My usual response is to finish my canapé, take a sip of my drink, and say, “Well, that’s like asking what makes a good first car. The transportation needs of a sixteen year old in the city vary greatly from those of a sixteen year old on a farm in the Midwest.” For the most part, that’s spot-on. A good first gun for plinking cans on the back porch is totally different than the best first gun for shooting clay pigeons out of the air. People buy guns for different reasons. The best first gun for one kind of shooting sport is probably very different from the best first gun for another. FAST FACTS: THE BEST FIRST GUN • The guns of today are better than ever before. This means your first gun is probably going to work well. • The best first gun for you is a gun that’s easy to learn how to shoot well. • 9mm compact pistols are a great balance of firepower, accuracy and ease of use. We can make some educated guesses about who is buying guns and why they’re buying them. For instance, a recent survey of new gun owners conducted by the National Shooting Sports Foundation shows that target shooting and self-defense are big motivators in buying a gun. So we will assume for the rest of this article that you’re looking for a gun (preferably a pistol) for target shooting, home defense, and personal protection. Here’s where the first problem pops up. The retail buying experience inside most gun stores is nowhere near as nice as it is in other types of stores. Rather than grouping guns together by price, size, or intended use, most guns stores group the guns by brand name. This might help the store when it needs to count its inventory, but it’s very confusing for a customer looking for a first gun. In addition, a lot of brand-specific technical jargon is tossed about. This makes the choice even more difficult. Panic and doubt start to creep in, followed quickly by analysis paralysis, brought on by all the decisions you need to make. FINDING THE BEST FIRST GUN IS A PERSONAL DECISION Just relax. We are in a golden age of guns right now. Your chances of selecting a truly awful gun are slim. Even better, there are a number of guns specifically designed for people who are looking for something that is easy to shoot, carry, and maintain while still having enough firepower to protect their life when it matters most. If that’s your situation, I recommend starting with a compact, poly-framed, striker-fired pistol chambered in 9mm. Good examples are the Glock 19, the Smith & Wesson M&P9c, the Sig Sauer P320 Carry, the Ruger SR9-C, and the FNS-9 Compact. All of these guns are very reliable, safe to handle, and easy to use. Rather than concentrate on one brand name over another, let’s talk about the features these guns have in common. COMPACT SIZE The guns I’ve mentioned are reduced-size versions of full-sized service pistols, such as the Glock 17 (a very common pistol for law enforcement) and the Sig Sauer M7 pistol (a variant of the P320 that was chosen as the U.S. military’s new service pistol). The larger, full-sized versions of these guns work well on the belts of military and law enforcement personnel. However, the call soon came for smaller, easier-to-conceal versions for other applications. This led to the creation of compact 9mm polymer-framed pistols. Speaking of which… POLYMER FRAME All of these pistols feature a frame made of a high-strength plastic-type material (polymer), which forms the gun’s foundation. The frame holds the trigger mechanism and magazine in place. It also provides a place to mountthe slide, barrel, and the rest of what makes a gun a gun. Contrary to what you might have heard, polymer-framed guns are not invisible to metal detectors or x-ray machines. The slide, barre l, magazine, internal workings, and ammunition all set off a metal detector. The gun itself shows up quite clearly in an x-ray. The advantages of a polymer frame are that it weighs less than metal and doesn’t rust, but it still holds the gun’s parts securely and safely in place. Glock was the first company to make the polymer frame popular in pistols. Almost every gun maker has since followed their lead. STRIKER-FIRED Speaking of Glock innovations, they were also the first company to make the striker-fired action popular in handguns. I’m a fan of hammer-fired guns, but I recognize that strikerfired guns have distinct advantages for first-time pistol owners. For instance, their safeties are typically built into the firing mechanism itself. This means the gun won’t go “BANG!!” until you make the conscious decision to pull the trigger (you DO remember the Four Rules Of Gun Safety, right?). This comes in handy if the gun is needed to defend a life, as you don’t have to think about flicking off a safety when seconds could mean the difference between life and death. In addition, a striker-fired action gives you a consistent trigger pull with each shot. The trigger pull on a striker-fired gun is not quite as nice as it is on a hammer-fired gun. However, less training is needed to master a consistent pull on a striker gun versus other types of pistol mechanisms. 9MM CALIBER The 9mm cartridge is a great balance between magazine capacity, recoil, and power. If you’re new to guns, you might hear people talking about how the police use pistols chambered in .40S&W. Or, maybe someone will extol the “man-stopping” firepower of the .45 ACP round. A Glock 19 holds 15 rounds of 9mm. A 707-462-9613ACP magazine holds 8. Is the .45ACP twice as effective as 9mm? Not really. The fact is, though, that modern bullets in 9mm do essentially the same damage as those in .40S&W or .45ACP. Because of this, police forces are switching back to 9mm from .40, giving their officers more rounds and less recoil when shooting. The same thing is true for the .45 ACP round. Don’t get me wrong, I love my 1911; it’s one of my favorite guns. However, it holds just eight rounds in the magazine, versus, say, fifteen rounds in a Glock 19. THE DELICATE BALANCE OF CONCEALED CARRY. The modern compact 9mm is as close to the sweet spot of accuracy, firepower, and concealability as has ever been invented. All of these guns are small enough to carry regularly and hold enough rounds to get the job done. Yet they are still easy to shoot. And because they shoot the inexpensive 9mm cartridge, they’re great for practice and training. This helps you become not just a gun owner, but a trained and competent gun owner. You may be tempted to think that a smaller subcompact 9mm pistol like a Glock 48 or Sig P365 is the best first gun for you. Resist that temptation. While smaller and lighter than the other guns I’ve mentioned, that decrease in size comes with a price. The smaller size means there is less mass to soak up recoil. There is also less gun to hold onto as the gun recoils. You should first learn to shoot well with a slightly larger 9mm, then move on to a smaller, more comfortable gun for concealed carry. OTHER OPTIONS Pocket pistols are a great idea for people who can carry a gun at work, but some people work in an office environment that makes concealing even a compact 9mm a difficult task. However, everything I just talked about with a subcompact 9mm is even more true with a pocket gun. Yes, they are an excellent choice for very discreet concealed carry. No, they are not your best choice for a first gun. In addition, it’s hard to argue against the power that a long gun such as a shotgun or rifle brings to a home defense situation. However, what they give you in firepower comes at the cost of flexibility. They are not as easy to wield as you move inside your house. They also have limited (if any) use outside your home, as these days people tend to frown on slung shotguns being carried into a shopping center. If you think a long gun might be right for you, that’s fine, but you should also look at how owning a pistol in addition to your long gun gives you even more personal protection options. Whatever gun you chose, practice with it regularly and with a purpose. A firearm is not a talisman of self-protection that wards off evil. Rather, it is a tool that responds to the skill of the user. The more skilled the user, the better the results will be when it matters the most. Shop around for the best first gun for you, then take it to the range so you can be the best possible marksman. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Kevin Creighton Prior to joining the team at Ammoman.com, Kevin Creighton led the marketing for a number of companies in the firearms world. Kevin has been a gun writer since 2006, writing articles on the new reality of gun ownership in the U.S. for publications such as American Hunter, Shooting Illustrated, BearingArms.com, Beretta.com and also Downrange TV. He is an active competitor in USPSA, IDPA and 3 Gun and is an NRA-licensed firearms instructor. Kevin has hundreds of training hours from people such as Bob Vogel, Craig Douglas, Rob Leatham, Massad Ayoob and others.

We've had a huge sale on AR platform rifles in the shop and I wanted to address a common question, can I fire a 223 Remington in my 5.56 NATO chambered rifle or pistol? I decided to do a little research on the subject and the folks at Hornady ammunition seem to have the best answer I could find in a format suitable for our blog. According to the good folks at Hornady: Differences between the two are small but can have a large impact on performance, safety and weapon function. The first difference is the higher pressure level of the 5.56 NATO cartridge which runs at approximately 58,000 psi. A 223 Remington is loaded to approximately 55,000 psi. The second and most important difference between the two is the fact that a 5.56 NATO chamber has a .125” longer throat. This allows approximately one more grain of powder to be loaded into a 5.56 NATO cartridge; this is what gives it higher performance than its 223 Remington cousin. The biggest problem with these differences is when firing a 5.56 NATO cartridge in a rifle chambered for 223 Rem. Due to the longer throat that the NATO chamber employs this combination will cause a 223 chambered weapon to run at approximately 65,000 psi or more. This is 10,000 psi higher than the 223’s normal functioning pressure of 55,000 psi. This is NOT safe and will cause primers to back out, or worse, cause harm to the operator, the rifle, or both. The reverse of this is firing a 223 Rem cartridge in a 5.56 NATO chambered rifle. Due to the throat difference between the two chambers a 223 Rem cartridge may not work optimally in a 5.56 NATO chambered weapon. The cause of this is the lack of pressure built by a 223 Rem cartridge fired from a 5.56 NATO chamber. The 223’s 55,000 psi will not be attained and therefore velocity and performance are hurt. Problems start occurring when this combination is fired out of a 5.56 NATO chambered rifle with a 14.5” (or shorter) barrel. The lower powder charge of the 223 round coupled with the pressure drop that occurs when it is fired in a the 5.56 NATO chamber will cause the rifle to cycle improperly. NATO chambered rifles with barrels longer than 14.5” should function properly when firing 223 Rem ammunition. So it would seem that one would have to choose between one cartridge or the other. There has always been a surplus of military 5.56 on the market, which would automatically disqualify (for safety) barrels chambered for the 223 Remington cartridge. However, this is not always the case. Enter the 223 Wyle barrel: The . 223 Wylde is a hybrid .707-462-9613 chamber designed by Bill Wylde to yield the accuracy advantages of the match .223 Remington commercial chambering, but without pressure or reliability failures when using high velocity 5.56 NATO spec ammunition. The .223 Wylde achieves better accuracy by having a chamber throat that is tighter than 5.56, but will still function reliably with military 5.56 ammunition because the case dimensions are the same. These facts lead to the .223 Wylde having superior target and varmint accuracy, a compatibility with all .223 and 5.56 NATO ammunitions, and being a top choice for competition shooters.

Here at the range we've been noticing a bit of a trend with new shooters. To that end, we would like to take this opportunity to address a common problem that has be plaguing many shooters. Limp wristing is a phenomenon commonly encountered by semi-automatic pistol shooters, where the shooter's grip is not firm enough and the wrist is not held firm/straight enough to keep the frame of the firearm from traveling rearward while the bolt or slide of the pistol cycles. This condition often results in a failure to complete the operating cycle, properly termed a malfunction , but commonly (and incorrectly) termed a "jam". Rifles and shotguns , if f ired without the stock in the shoulder, may also be prone to limp wristing. Of the important variables involved in this type of malfunction, bullet and gas momentum, slide and barrel mass, recoil spring pre-load and spring rate, and shooting hand and arm mass are much more important than the compliance (limpness) of the wrist. Contents 1 Overview of the operating cycle 2 How limp wristing can cause a failure to cycle 3 How to address limp wristing 4 External links Overview of the operating cycle The cycling of any type of semiautomatic firearm can be broken down into two phases; the first is the rearward motion of the bolt or slide (hereafter referred to only as slide, which is the most common form in pistols), the second is the forward motion of the slide. The rearward motion of the slide is initiated by the force of firing, and continues using the slide's inertia. While the slide moves rearwards, a spring, called the recoil spring, is compressed, absorbing the energy of the slide while slowing it down. Approximately 50% of the momentum imparted by the bullet and gas is converted into kinetic energy of the slide relative to the frame. This energy is stored by the recoil spring. The other approximate 50% of the momentum is converted to the kinetic energy by accelerating the hand and arm mass. During this phase the fired cartridge case is extracted from the barrel and ejected. When the slide is fully to the rear, it is stopped by the fully compressed recoil spring. The spring then pushes the slide forward, stripping a new cartridge from the magazine and pushing it into the chamber. The firearm is then ready to fire the next round. How limp wristing can cause a failure to cycle Depending on the operating mechanism, there are a number of places that limp wristing can cause a failure to cycle. Recoil operated firearms are more susceptible to failure of this type than blowback and gas-operated firearms, and lightweight polymer framed handguns are more susceptible than heavy, steel-framed or even lighter metal alloy handguns. When there is not enough energy to move the slide back far enough relative to the frame to cycle the action, it is called limp wristing. When there is too much energy in moving the slide back relative to the frame, it is called slide slam. In blowback and gas-operated firearms, the slide reacts against the frame pushing the frame forward slightly against the recoil of the bullet leaving. In recoil operated firearms, the slide reacts against the bullet, and the frame is under no force at the time of firing. As the slide begins to recoil to the rear some of that energy is transmitted to the frame through the locking mechanism (in locked breech designs) and the recoil spring. This transmitted energy accelerates the frame to the rear as well. If the frame is not sufficiently restrained by its mass and the shooter's grip or straightened wrist, the frame will "catch up" to the slide, and the recoil spring will not be fully compressed, and the slide will return forward under less than the designed force. One common result of limp wristing is a failure to eject, as the slide will be moving too slowly at the point where the ejector is activated. The slow-moving case will be caught as the slide closes, resulting in a "stovepipe" jam. These jams can be easily dealt with by knocking the used brass out of the way with the side of the hand or closed fist. The other common result of limp wristing is a failure to return to battery: the slide will be moving too slowly to move the new cartridge fully into the chamber, so the slide will stop partially open. The least common form of failure is a failure to feed, where the slide returns to battery on an empty chamber, because the slide moved back just far enough to eject the fired cartridge, but not enough to strip the next round from the magazine. How to address limp wristing As the name suggests, the problem occurs most often with shooters who have a loose grip or allow their wrists to flex or bend too much relative to their forearm during recoil. A firm, two handed grip or a stiffened wrist relative to the forearm will often solve the problem. Some shooters, however, lack the strength for such a firm grip, and in that case there are three avenues that can be explored: strengthen one's grip, changing the firearm, or changing the ammunition. In the event that proper grip and follow through cannot be obtained because of physical limitations, an alternative would be to use a manually cycled firearm action, such as a revolver. Revolvers are a viable option for shooters who have difficulty with semiautomatic designs. The other alternative is to pick a firearm whose frame is heavier in relation to its slide. Polymer framed handguns have the lightest frames, and as the frame is flexible, it absorbs more energy than metal frames. Aluminium and titanium alloys are slightly heavier and much stiffer than the polymers, and steel is the heaviest frame material generally used. Full sized frames are also heavier than compact frames. The heavier frames will have more inertia, and will rely less on the shooter's grip strength to hold the frame still. The other approach is to alter the ammunition used. Low-velocity, light bullet loads such as those used in target shooting have the least energy available to operate the action, and thus are the most sensitive to limp wristing. A heavier or faster bullet will help. Accurate Powder did tests of various powder types in Glock and SIG Sauer handguns, and determined that fast-burning powders caused failures to increase, and that medium- and slow-burning powders (of the range suitable for the cartridge) gave the best reliability.[citation needed] Limp wristing would magnify these changes, so fast powders should be avoided. When the ammo is too weak or the recoil spring is too stiff or the slide is too heavy, and limp wristing malfunctions occur, the cure may be more powerful ammo or a lower-force recoil spring. When the ammo is too powerful or the recoil spring is too weak or the slide is too light, slide slam occurs. Slide slam is bad for the firearm and bad for the shooter's hand. The correct balance is when the ejected casings land approximately 5 feet from the shooter. In this balance there is adequate ejection and no slide slam. When a police force chooses guns and ammo for a diverse population of personnel with low hand mass all the way to high hand mass, the compromise will be to have the heavy-handed experience some slide slam, rather than the light-handed to experience limp wrist-induced malfunctions. The consequence is that those on the force with heavy hands will see ejected cases go further than 5 feet. This small amount of slide slam may cause some tiny additional wear to the slide, frame, and shooter's high mass hand, but it is a better option than a limp wristed malfunction for the low hand mass officers.

Knowing how to clean a gun is a maintenance skill of utmost importance. It’s better to be safe than sorry when lives are on the line.